Summary
Iva Jestratijević: Study of fashion
Signs and meanings of clothing practice
Although until the last decade of the twentieth century the sphere of clothing was observed from various one-dimensional perspectives, the increasingly rapid development of cultural studies helped to overcome all the mistakes of earlier approaches to this demanding social and cultural practice. Fashion studies have become one of the integral subsystems of contemporary cultural studies, which was a significant step forward from classical studies of costumes as a credible element of material culture (as observed in ethnological, anthropological and historical studies), to studies of clothing as a symbolic text, which now functions as a sign of social or ideological affiliation, sexuality and chosen lifestyle in addition to previously being a trace/artifact in diachronic time. Fashion studies determine clothing as a potential text and image, an ideological sign, but also as an object of mass consumption.
The word fashion comes from the Latin word modus, which means, among other things: goal, standard, way, form, composition. However, the etymology of this word in this particular case does not significantly help in understanding the phenomenon itself. In the broadest sense, fashion could be defined as a general mechanism that works, as Walter Benjamin once defined it, through the eternal return of the new. In this sense, one could talk, as Dorfles described it, about various literary or philosophical fashions, if fashion is understood as a periodic change of taste.
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